I've checked off another item from my bucket list: I rode Amtrak across the country in a sleeping car. It was a very pleasant experience. I'd like to tell you about it, since I am guessing that most people who read this have not yet experienced Amtrak.
Sue's and my trip from her house to my house was fully on Amtrak and had two parts: South Bend (Indiana) to Chicaga, coach-class, then Chicago to Dallas, sleeper. Boarding there was my first experience with Amtrak. The traincars are huge! They're double-decker, and I'm guessing they're at least 18 feet high.

The first leg of the trip was short. The stewardesses were as friendly as long-unionized employees can be, the seats were nice and roomy, and there was more than twice the legroom as on a coach class of an airplane. Also, coach class had a power outlet for every seat, so while Sue napped I fired up the laptop and caught up on mail and news over my cell phone.
In Chicago we for the first time felt the significance of "first class." Chicago's Union Station has a Metro Lounge -- a room reserved for Amtrak's first-class passengers. The room isn't anything amazing, but it's definitely better than the continuous bustle and noise of the main waiting area. The Metro Lounge has chairs, TVs, a soda fountain that anyone can use as much as they want, and unlimited coffee. They also serve snacks (Goldfish), but we opted to eat in Chicago. Lastly, Metro Lounge offers perhaps the most useful feature of all: a temporary storage room, allowing us to store our carry-ons and walk around Chicago without worrying about bags.
The storage room deserves another mention. It was staffed by a "Red Cap" -- a guy who helps with first-class passengers with luggage. Ours was named Stephen. He is the most friendly and most dedicated unionized employee I've ever met. As we were walking out of the Metro Lounge to find Chicago food, he got Sue's attention and told her that her cell phone -- somewhere in her bag -- rang. I got his name, called Amtrak customer relations, and had them take note of Stephen's excellence.
Four hours after our arrival in Chicago, it was time to start the Texas Eagle route from Chicago to Dallas. We were taken to a numbered terminal that had a train waiting, and we boarded onto the sleeping car.
Amtrak offered us three options when we bought tickets: coach seats, a roomette, or a full room. Coach means sleeping while sitting and clothed; no thanks. A room meant enough space for four with even a sink and toilet in the room. That's nice but expensive. A roommette is for two, and it's at a good price.
As soon as we saw our roommette, we were impressed, and my happiness with it keeps growing as I discover new features and engineering tricks. The layout and features of the roomette are designed exceptionally well.
Each roomette is 6'6" by 3'6". In that tiny amount of space, the good people of Amtrak crammed in the following:
- carpet,
- two large windows,
- a sliding, locking door with windows,
- movable dark curtains in front of both windows and the sliding door,
- two soft wide, reclining armchairs that convert to a full-length bed,
- an upper bunk that can be raised out of the way or lowered for another full-length bed,
- a lamp to illuminate the whole roomette,
- focused reading lamps,
- a blue night light,
- temperature control,
- a power outlet,
- a full-height closet that can hold at least two coats,
- a box of facial tissues and a trash can,
- a removable tray table,
- a tall mirror,
- lots of space underneath the armchairs for carry-ons, and plenty of space for books and pocket miscellany.
Can you visualize all this? If no, then here are some photos.





The roomette is optional. In fact most people opt for "coach", which buys you just a roomy seat in a train car full of seats -- like on an airplane. Opting for the roomette makes you a "first-class passenger," and Amtrak still gives some meaning to this title.
Once we boarded, the sleeping car attendant came around, introduced himself, said that we can help ourselves to unlimited orange juice, coffee, and ice water, and that if we need anything, we can pull a knob in our roommette to summon him.
Shortly afterwards, the dining car steward came around and took our dining reservations. All meals are complimentary for first-class passengers!
Now we could relax. We would be on this train for almost 24 hours.
Before dinner Sue and I went to the observation car. The observation car has huge windows on the sides and on the ceiling, along with armchairs facing outward, for comfortable observation of the neverending corn fields on both sides of us.
After walking around Chicago for hours, I wanted a shower, and sleeping cars have a very nice shower facility. In my time aboard, I took three showers.
Lastly I want to mention food. There was a dining car attached to our train, and that's where they fed us. For dinner I had a flat iron steak and sue had a barbecue sandwich. Both were good quality, though my steak was not prepared properly. I asked for medium-rare and got one that was mostly right but had a very rare section. Asking them to throw it back on the grill for a few minutes didn't fix the problem, so I just left a piece. (I heard somewhere that one should never ask for rare or medium-rare steak at non-steakhouses. Amtrak is not a steakhouse.) The dessert was good. For breakfast I had a vegetable and cheese omelette while Sue had French toast. Both were great -- and free.
In many ways Amtrak is the best of a hotel and an airplane. Though they're a sucky business (they lose money every year and require government assistance), they offer an experience unmatched by any other form of transportation. I give it two thumbs up.
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